BARKING
The number one behaviour issue we see is Barking. Barking is influenced by both genetics and environmental factors. It can also be learned by experience. Perhaps the dog barked one day causing what he was barking at to jump away or leave. Now he thinks his barking is a way to make suspicious people retreat. Or maybe out of boredom he started barking and you came out to see what's going on. Now he's learned that barking gets you to pay attention to him. Dogs do what works. So if their behaviour worked, it becomes stronger. If it doesn't work, they don't waste their time with it, so it dies. This is referred to as extinction and before it occurs, the behaviour will intensify before it finally dies off. Owners have a tough time waiting it out and often feel they aren't getting anywhere. The secret, of course, is patience! Waiting it out and ensuring that he is not getting reinforced by anyone or anything when the unwanted behaviour is occurring.
There are different forms of barking so our first step is determining what type of barking your dog is doing. Is it territorial barking, boredom barking, playful barking, fearful barking, etc. Each type of barking requires a different solution. The next step is determining when the barking seems to occur - time of day, outside vs. inside, when you are not at home, when the dog is full of energy etc. Stress is another cause of excessive barking. Barking cannot be fixed overnight or with little effort. It will take time and patience but can be managed. I do not advocate bark collars unless absolutely necessary (life or death situation). In this instance I would only recommend a citronella spray collar - not a shock collar! Citronella Spray collars can be purchased at Chinook Country Vet Clinic in Olds and they are a veterinarian approved product.
Redirection - redirect the dog's attention to something else whenever he is barking. I use a "quiet" command and teach an association with the word. Start by saying "good quiet" and treating over and over again when he is quiet after a few seconds have passed from the barking episode. Use a soft voice so your dog really has to listen attentively to hear you. If you do this over and over again regularly after every barking episode, your dog will start to associate the word "quiet" with rewards. The rewards should be motivating enough to turn him off whatever he is barking at. This works even if your dog is not close to you (although you will have to use a louder voice). Your dog will come running to you looking for the treat that is associated with the word "quiet". But be careful that your dog doesn't turn this into a behaviour chain - bark, "quiet" = reward. Your timing is an important factor (determining when you should be putting in the new cue "quiet"). Better yet, set your dog up for success. If your dog usually barks at someone walking by the house, set it up and time it just right so when the person walks by you say "quiet" and reward before the barking even occurs. But remember also, that in order for a behaviour to increase, it needs a high rate of reinforcement. Meaning - repeat this trial over and over again!! Barking when you are not at home needs to be managed. Put your dog in a place where he can't look out windows, turn the tv or radio on so he cannot hear outside noises etc. Sometimes this is all it takes. But for the more serious barker, you will need to seek the help of a trainer.
RECALLS
Everytime an untrained dog or unmotivated to return dog, gets a chance to practise this behaviour of running away successfully, the behaviour is strengthened. With that being said, my number one piece of advice to all dog owners is to never allow the chance of not returning to occur. This means the dog should always be on a long line, never allowed freedom, and only use the "come" command when you know the success rate is high (dog is not distracted). This should be done until the dog reaches maturity (1 to 2 years of age). Next would be to never ever call your dog to be punished, to end the fun, for bathtime etc. The word "come" is to only be followed by good things. Choose another word if you must or just go to your dog and get him, but don't use the word "COME". Classes help develop solid recalls due to the distractions present and the amount of proofing involved (toys, noises, other dogs, humans etc.) Dogs have great recalls in the home but have not been proofed outdoors or at the park or with distractions present. Solid recalls develop through practise, repetition, on long lines so dog cannot fail and through much proofing. The name game is a great way to build your "come" command just by reinforcing the dog's name. Need 2 or more people. Everyone takes turns calling the dog just with the dog's name. When the dog arrives surprise him with a treat or praise or play. Then the next person says the dog's name etc. Vary the rewards to keep the dog quessing. You wouldn't like to work for the same treat over and over again - how BORING!! Vary the reward and he will never know what to expect for coming but does know it is always positive!!! Once he performs this behaviour fast and reliable, add the "come" cue instead of his name.
"TRAINING TIPS"
